Exquisite, intricate, vibrant, and shimmering are just some of the descriptions that one uses to describe the rich abundance of Kutchi craftwork, in particular its textiles. But it's not just the sight and feel of the textiles that makes Kutch such a special destination; it is the experience of observing traditional artisans - including National Award Winners - at work in their homes and villages as they have done for generations, and even having a go yourself.
Textiles are - quite literally - the fabric of Kutchi culture - a basic unit of identity, associated with dowry rituals, social hierarchy, and festivals. The interdependence between farmers and herders with dyers and weavers, as well as potters and leather-workers, traces back to the Indus Valley civilisation, some 5000 years ago. Today, the work of various NGO groups has allowed this ancient culture to find new relevance and immense pride in the modern world.
WEAVING
Both cotton and wool are hand-spun, dyed, and woven on pit-looms, to create earthy but sophisticated scarves, shawls, blankets and carpets. Products are often subtly embellished with touches of hand embroidery or mirrorwork. The most famous weaving community is located in the village of Bhujodi, a few kilometers outside of Bhuj, but you'll find weaving families throughout the region.
AJRAKH BLOCK-PRINTING
The ancient Ajrakh craft involves printing intricately carved wood blocks on to fabric, using dyes traditionally made from natural sources, such as pomegranate, indigo, and iron. Floral and geometric motifs are typically used, but artisans are increasingly exploring contemporary patterns and designs. Ajrakhpur, 12 km from Bhuj is the main hub where you can see this ancient art form in production.
BANDHNI
Literally translated as 'to tie', Bandhni is a technique whereby tiny pinches of fabric are tightly bound in fine thread to resist the dye. After dying, the thread is unravelled to reveal a mesmerising dotted pattern. Bandhni sarees and salwar sets are abundant in Bhuj's main bazaar, while a number of artisans are experimenting with shibori and clamping while refining their techniques. Master artisans are located mostly around Bhuj and also in Bhadli.
EMBROIDERY
Kutchi embroidery is some of the finest that India produces. Intricate stitches, often incorporating small mirrors are typical of most styles, although each style is uniquely representative of different tribal communities: Rabari, Ahir, Mutwa, and Jat are examples. Sumrasar, Hodko, Khavda, and Dhordo are famous embroidery villages, but embroidery is found all over Kutch. Located on the fringe of the block-printing village, Ajrakhpur is the world-class LLDC embroidery museum - a must-visit, ideally towards the beginning of a visit to the region to become acquainted with the different styles and communities before exploring them.
PATCHWORK
Quilted blankets - patchworked together using old, colourful pieces of material - are one of the ways how the Kutchi people kept themselves warm during winter in the desert. You can find examples of patchwork and applique in the same embroidery villages around the Banni, just south of the Great Rann. Patchwork is often undertaken by senior ladies when their dexterity and eye-sight required for fine embroidery become challenged.
BATIK
Batik is one of Kutch's smaller textile crafts, confined mostly to a number of families around Mundra on the south coast. Like ajrakh, batik involves the use of printing with carved wooden blocks. Wax is applied onto the block and pressed onto the fabric which resists the dye, except for fine threads of dye which seep through the cracks and give batik its signature 'veined' appearance. After dying, wax is removed with boiling water and collected for re-use.
